The Finale

 Travelling from Oban we drove past Loch Lomond, although as still raining it was a blur. Then into Glasgow where we stopped to see the Cathedral dedicated to St Mungo. We had a guided walk through the  inner City and George Square. The sun is shining! We had lunch here then drive to Falkirk to see the engineering feat of the Falkirk Wheel in action. This invention, a rotating boat lift, allows boats to be lifted from the Forth and Clyde Canal to the Union Canal. It used to take 44 locks to be raised the 35 metres between the 2 levels.

We then went to Helix Park which displays The Kelpies. The Kelpies are the largest equine sculptures standing over 100ft tall and weighing 300 tonnes each. The 2 works of art were created by Andy Scott and were modelled on real life icons of a bygone era - the Clydesdale horses which used to haul the barges along the canals. 

Our last day of the tour - sun is shining again. Out to Bannockburn, the site of a major battle in 1314 between the army of Robert the Bruce (King of Scotland) and the army of King Edward II of England. It was a victory for Scotland. We visited nearby Stirling Castle, perched high on a rock with great views of the surrounding countryside.

Robert the Bruce 

We travelled alongside Loch Ard to the Wood Family’s Ledard Farm for a lunch - being piped into an ancient barn and entertained by Fergus Wood with stories and sing along. A great finale to the trip.

The Isles continued

 We left Thurso and continued west on the North Coast 500 (so called as it stretches 500 miles around the coastline from Inverness). At Tongue turned South travelling to Lairg and traversed magnificent mountains (many Munros) alongside Lochs. Lunch stop at Ullapool and the sun is shining in this pretty fishing port, so we had fish and chips. The weather has been perfect, with sunny patches though windy.

Ullapool

We had a group photo with Eilean Donan Castle as a backdrop and a taste of Drambuie, the liqueur  recipe that supposedly Bonnie Prince Charlie offered his hosts on Isle of Skye for their assistance in hiding him and helping him escape to France. (I think this is fake news). The drink is made from Scotch Whisky, Heather honey, herbs and spices. And so onward to the Isle of Skye via the bridge built in 1992.

Eilean Donan Castle

Today we woke to drizzle and mist. Picked up a local guide who pointed out local landmarks on Skye even though we couldn’t see a thing through the rain. We dared to get off the bus at Kilt Rock to photograph a waterfall and got blown sideways. A lunch stop at the capital Portree whilst briefly the rain stopped. Then to Sligachan for the best photo ever - a low rainbow above the old stone bridge.

Legend has it that if you stick you face in the water under the Old Sligachan Bridge for 7 seconds and let it dry off naturally, you'll be granted eternal beauty. We didn't try it!

Kilt Rock, so called because it looks like the pleats in a kilt

Sligachan - over the rainbow

In view of the high winds and rough sea, our ferry ride off the Isle had to be cancelled and we drove off over the bridge. We travelled down through Fort William, Glen Coe and finally to Oban, where the sun was lighting the evening sky.

Today sailed from Oban to The Isle of Mull. It is raining, so not a great day to travel. Then a bus ride across the Island (saw a herd of hairy cows) to Fionnphort where we boarded another ferry to take us to the tiny island of Iona. Iona is where St Columba from Ireland came to bring Christianity to Scotland. There is an Abbey and ruins of a Nunnery. Unfortunately for us the heavens opened up and it bucketed down rain for most of our time here. We took shelter in the cafe and attempted to dry out our shoes, socks, jeans etc to no avail. We then departed on the ferry/bus/ferry to get us back to Oban.

Iona Abbey Cloisters

 

The Orkney Islands

 A cruise on Loch Ness was followed by a visit to Dunrobin Castle, as we made our way still further North. This Castle looks like a fairytale structure with the most amazing gardens, which have a backdrop of the North Sea. The gardens were inspired by the Palace of Versailles. This castle was once home to Clan Sutherland.

We then set out for the most scenic drive along the eastern coastline and had a perfect sunny afternoon for it. We saw offshore wind farms and the railway line that hugs the coast for most of the way (see Michael Portillo’s Rail Journeys series on SBS). We arrived at the old former Viking settled town of Wick. There we had a whisky tasting of the 200 year old Pulteney Distillery. Then on to Thurso for 2 nights. A pipe band was playing in the street outside our hotel at dinner.

This morning we also had beautiful sunshine to drive to John O’Groats, the most North Eastern point of Great Britain. I can now say I have been from Lands End (most South Westerly point) to John O’Groats.

Then to the ferry for the Orkney Islands from Gill’s Bay to St Margaret’s Hope. There are 70 Islands in this group of which only 20 are inhabited. Four are connected by causeways called “Churchill” barriers, built during World War II to prevent German submarines entering Scarpa Flow. Stopped in the Capital, Kirkwall for a coffee break. We visited Scara Brae, a site that was uncovered in 1850 when a massive storm took the topsoil and vegetation off the cliff top to reveal underground stone houses. These were constructed out of the local large flat stones and dates back 5000 years. On to the next wonder of the Islands - a Neolithic site of Standing Stones and the Ring of Brodgar. These massive flat stones form a circle, and to date their purpose is unknown. Last of all we saw the Italian Chapel, built using Nissen Huts and decorated inside by the Italian POWs who worked on the Islands constructing the Churchill barriers.

Time to return to Thurso on the Ferry, which was a little bumpier when crossing the so called Swilkie, where the North Sea tidal currents meet the Atlantic Ocean, causing the sea to rise with violent unpredictable waves. What a perfect day.

Heading North

 We set off, crossed the Firth of Forth Bridge to Fife, passing through pastoral landscapes (look at the size of this heart-shaped strawberry from a local farm) for the township of St Andrew’s. The Women’s Open is currently playing here so access to the Golf Course was limited, but I did manage a few photos. The beach here is where the opening scene from the movie “Chariots of Fire” was filmed. 

Onward to Dundee, but first to visit Glamis Castle, former home of the Bowes Lyon family and the Queen Mother. Parts of it are still occupied so we only saw some of the beautifully presented rooms. There were some Hairy Cows grazing in the surrounding fields. 

St Andrews

Glamis Castle

Dundee is on the Tay River and has a maritime history. Once famous for the 3 J’s - Jute factories (for sack making), Jam (marmalade, which is still a local industry) and Journalism or publishing (now in decline with on line newspapers etc). We had a passionate guide describe early days of Dundee, then take us through the dry docked ship “Discovery”, which was purpose built in Dundee as a whaling ship but used to take Robert Falcon Scott to Antarctica in 1901. The ship is undergoing restoration work to restore it to its former glory. So I can now say I have been on 2 ships which sailed to Antarctica.

Friday - On the move again, northwards to Pitlochry, a pretty town which became a popular tourist destination after Queen Victoria stayed here way back. Then to Aviemore, set in the Cairngorms National Park, with many “Monros” or mountains over 3000ft. We have reached the Highlands now and this area is very much outdoors central, with hiking, canoeing, camping etc. To our surprise it appears we have arrived in town coinciding with the annual Thunder in the Glens event - a Harley Davidson aficionado gathering which now attracts over 10,000 visitors and been described as the best run HOG in Europe. Well they were everywhere!  Next stop Culloden and the Visitor Centre and Battlefield. Without boring you, the history: in 1746 Jacobite (Bonnie Prince Charlie) Supporters, seeking to restore the Stuart monarchy to the British throne, gathered to fight the Duke of Cumberland’s government troops. The British defeated the Scottish. We could go onto the battlefield site and see the Cairns marking the various Clans who lost over 1500 men,

Bikie in Aviemore

Culloden Battlefield

We then arrived in Inverness on the banks of the Ness River, for one night.

Edinburgh

 We have arrived in the land of tartan. After 2 days in a Georgian apartment, today we joined our Tour Group at the Voco Hotel in Haymarket. We have enjoyed 3 Fringe Festival events - The Music of Adele, The Billy Joel Story and A Highly Suspect Murder Mystery, which was a fun improv. Also had a very expensive fish and chip meal, rode on a tram and saw the statue of Greyfriars Bobby, a Skye terrier. He became well known because he spent 14 years guarding the grave of his owner. Tonight was the welcome dinner and we were taken to Tolbooth Tavern for dinner. The building dates back to 1591 and was the point of entry into the City Walls, upon payment of a toll. 

Next day - a tram ride to see Britannia at Ocean Terminal, then afternoon guided tour around Edinburgh and up to the Castle. The weather so far has been kind, if rather breezy. 

And then to the Tattoo - what a night. We were well rugged up with 3 layers so fought off the cold - just a few showers and loved every minute of the performance. A very late night, it was after midnight when we got back to the hotel.

Today we headed south to “the Borders” area to visit Jedburgh Abbey ruins and the remains of Melrose Abbey. Through the rolling hills covered in heather, it was pretty countryside. Also stopped at Leaderfoot to see the aqueduct bridge, now not in use for vehicles. See the fishermen in the River.

Tonight we attended dinner at Torphichen Inn, for a traditional Scottish Ceilidh evening, which included piping in and address of the haggis, Scottish dancing and songs. I did try the haggis but had some whisky to wash it down.